Blue Moon has a whole lot of traces. To take simply the strains that come down the principle mast, you’ve got the:
– jib halyard
– foresail halyard
– mainsail peak halyard
– mainsail throat halyard
– mainsail topping carry
– the topsail halyard
– the topsail downhaul
– the topsail outhaul
– single mainsail sheet
– two jib sheets
– single foresail sheet
– two backstays
– mizzen halyard
– mizzen sheet
Not to mention the strains that terminate on the primary or mizzen booms, or on the bowsprit:
– bobstay line
– bobstay tricing line
– mainsail outhaul
– mainsail reefing line
– mizzen lazy jacks
I’m probably forgetting a couple traces, however you get the concept. Put that many traces on a 23′ boat, and issues can get disorganized quick. Not serving to issues: there aren’t enough cleats on the Blue Moon for marine parts all these strains. In truth, when i purchased the boat, there were only 5 plastic cleats and 5 belaying pins. That meant that many of those tie-off factors had 2 and even three traces wrapped around them. Have to get that backstay off shortly? Too bad! First you must un-cleat the jib and foresail sheets. Have enjoyable with that one!
As part of my ‘no-drama’ sailing program (more on that, soon), my purpose is for each of these lines to have it is own devoted cleat or belaying pin. I might even label them (… no, probably not!)
The point is, when it’s essential to peak up the mainsail, it is a heck of too much easier if (1) you already know the place it’s belayed, and (2) the topping lift isn’t tied on prime of it.
Furthermore, you’ll be able to imagine how difficult it’s for a solo sailor to handle all these strains. A typical tack entails:
– putting the helm over
– half-means via the tack, when the sails are slack:
– tighten the (new) windward backstay
– release the (new) leeward backstay
– release the jib sheet
– heave in the opposite jib sheet
breath once more
I’ve already built one cleat — a boom cleat for the mainsail outhaul — so I’ve a bit of experience with this… not loads, but sufficient to get me going.
For my first jam cleat, I selected a sample for what I imagine is a Butler Cleat… a jam cleat designed by the famous 19th century canoeist, Paul Butler. I’m still attempting to trace down a definitive supply for this pattern, but this is the pattern that I’ve:
‘Butler’ Cleat
I just Photoshopped this image into the scale cleat I needed, printed it out, and marine hinge cut the facet profile out with scissors. Just like in kindergarten. Then I just layer it on a bit of scrap oak. Traced around it with a pencil. This isn’t any-drama constructing, so I didn’t go loopy with this.
‘Template’ on scrap of Oak
Then I roughly lower out the piece with a 1/8″ blade on my ‘new’ 2-wheel bandsaw. I scored this magnificence on Craigslist last week, from an octogenarian who’s “downsizing” his woodworking shop. With it’s stable construction, respectable rollers, and powerful belt-drive motor, it is a huge step up from my previous Buffalo 3-wheeler, and the worth was unbeatable. Just goes to indicate that you may get some superb instruments for subsequent to nothing in case you are affected person sufficient.
New Bandsaw!
The noticed came with a box stuffed with model new blades (some with “Merry Christmas, grandpa!” labels still connected), so I installed a 1/8″ blade, and used it to roughly minimize out the cleat. Total time, possibly 5 minutes.
Roughly lower out
Then I shortly formed it with some 60 grit sandpaper, used my cheese-grater style rasp to round the curve across the tall horn, and finished it off with one hundred twenty grit sandpaper.
Again, maybe 10 minutes.
After a bit of sanding
The one trouble I had was drilling the decrease screw gap… the one on the left on the template. My countersink bit is a bit too large in diameter, so to get previous the ‘horn’, I had to drill the opening a bit close to the back finish of the cleat. Next time, I’ll just lower the ‘base’ a bit longer, to allow more room for the screw. 1/4″ should do it.
Since this was actually the first jam cleat I’d every really seen, I actually wasn’t precisely positive how it would work. I wasn’t even positive which direction it ought to level, or wether the rope ought to cross by means of the jamming side first, or after going around the ‘horn’ aspect first.
I had my theories, but I wished to test them out earlier than installing the cleat. So I screwed it right down to a bit of scrap wooden and performed around with it for a bit.
Pretty clearly, the road ought to cross around the horn, first, then by way of the ‘jammer’. I also found it labored nice with strains from 5/16″ or 3/8″ line. For my 1/2″ important sheet, I’d in all probability need to scale it up a bit.
Testing in shop
With the testing accomplished, it was time to install it on the Blue Moon, but first, I wanted to offer it a bit of safety. The cleat is ‘completed’ with a coat of linseed oil, adopted by a great rubbing of my residence-brew paste wax, made from linseed oil and beeswax. For more information regarding boat cleat on sale stop by the web site. I’m hoping this wax will lend more safety than linseed oil alone. Linseed oil is great for a desk in your dwelling room, however ineffective on a ship. It just does not last lengthy sufficient. Only time will tell if wax is any higher. I’ll let you already know.
Paste-wax and bronze screws
Here it’s, bedded down with Dolphinite, and screwed in with 1 1/2″ bronze screws. I’m using this one for my foresail sheet. The pull of the line is all to the left, and screws are very sturdy against that kind of sheer force, so I believe they are going to be strong enough. If there was any ‘lifting’ pressure, I’d want to via-bolt them.
Installed and dealing!
Anyway, my son Chris and that i took the cleat out for a shake-down cruise this weekend, and it performed magnificently. I’m going to build a number of extra of assorted sizes for the remainder of my quick-launch traces.
It was an actual joy to complete a mission in one simple night. The old timers designed cleats in all kinds of various specialised shapes, but none of them look laborious to make. If you’re on the lookout for a fast and low-cost way to improve your boat cleat, building sturdy, good looking wood cleats is a good option.