Lately, I’ve been seeing lots of sewists make their own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-but there’s one detail that I don’t need to include in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear earlier than, you probably know that many ending methods for the legholes and waistline include elastic, both fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t find out about you, however none of my ready-to-put on underwear have elastic in the legs-and typically they don’t in the waist either. That is the type of underwear I like best.
So, the place does this depart me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, but I want to make my very own underwear. That is where knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to indicate you the way to swap elastic for jacquard elastic band a knit band to finish your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
Find out how to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do this.
Make sure your fabric meets the stretch necessities said in the pattern you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers sample, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork sample, it features a stretch guide that can assist you see if the fabric you need to use has enough stretch in it. Listed below are some Seamwork patterns you should utilize:
– The Geneva panties are a basic selection, particularly if you want to make use of stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are good for biker-quick model underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work nicely with a knit band as a substitute of elastic.
– The new (and free!) Flo interval underwear. You can make these with out the absorbent fabric if you wish to make a comfy pair of on a regular basis underwear.
Cut your pattern out and sew together all the fundamental items. Here is my constructed garment aside from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that will help you resolve how lengthy your knit bands must be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I must do some math.
Ugh, math!? I know-it’s not my favorite, however we obtained this!
You want some math as a result of for those who reduce the knit band the identical size because the leg gap or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to mimic the elastic end. You need to seek out the perfect quantity of detrimental ease to your knit band to stay in place and fit securely-but comfortably-to your body.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-here at Seamwork, and she suggested me to follow a simple equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the full circumference of the opening.
I want to emphasise that 90% is a suggestion and a great place to start! Depending in your fabric’s recovery, you may must do some testing to get the best circumference. In case you loved this information and you would love to receive details regarding woven elastic band (https://Www.empowher.com/) i implore you to visit the site. You possibly can all the time baste your band to your underwear to test the match first.
So, since my leg gap is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I lower my leg bands at 24 3/4 inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I lower my waistband at 31 inches.
I want my bands to be a bit wider, so I cut them 2 inches huge, however you may make them a bit narrower or wider. Try to not go below 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. For those who lower your bands too slim, they may need some more bulk at the seam allowance. For those who reduce them too wide, you could have problems fitting your gusset.
Sew the two short ends of your knit band together. Press the seam to at least one side. Helpful hint: If you’re using a serger, use just one needle to cut down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With incorrect sides collectively, baste the raw edge.
With proper sides collectively, pin the knit band evenly along the leg gap. You will have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/8 inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You’ll be able to see this in motion on this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance towards the underwear and topstitch with a narrow zigzag to hold the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that very same course of on your different leg gap and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you simply made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she wants to make sure your on-line experiences are enjoyable and pleasant.