Lately, I’ve been seeing a lot of sewists make their very own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-but there’s one detail that I don’t want to incorporate in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear earlier than, you probably know that many finishing strategies for the legholes and waistline include elastic, elastic band either fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t know about you, however none of my ready-to-put on underwear have elastic in the legs-and generally they don’t in the waist either. If you cherished this report and you would like to get extra details about elastic band (www.chubbychannel.com) kindly take a look at our webpage. This is the kind of underwear I like greatest.
So, where does this leave me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear as a result of it feels too restrictive, but I need to make my very own underwear. This is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to point out you find out how to swap elastic for a knit band to finish your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
The right way to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do this.
Be certain your fabric meets the stretch necessities acknowledged within the pattern you’re using. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers sample, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re utilizing a Seamwork sample, it features a stretch information to help you see if the fabric you want to make use of has enough stretch in it. Here are some Seamwork patterns you can use:
– The Geneva panties are a basic selection, woven elastic band especially if you need to make use of stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are perfect for biker-brief style underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work nicely with a knit band as an alternative of elastic.
– The brand new (and free!) Flo period underwear. You can make these with out the absorbent fabric if you wish to make a comfy pair of on a regular basis underwear.
Cut your sample out and sew collectively all the essential items. Here is my constructed garment apart from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline to help you determine how long your knit bands should be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I must do some math.
Ugh, math!? I know-it’s not my favourite, however we acquired this!
You need some math because when you cut the knit band the identical length as the leg gap or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to mimic the elastic finish. You want to search out the perfect amount of unfavourable ease in your knit band to remain in place and match securely-but comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-right here at Seamwork, and she advised me to comply with a simple equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the total circumference of the opening.
I want to emphasise that 90% is a suggestion and a good place to start out! Depending on your fabric’s recovery, you might must do some testing to get the appropriate circumference. You possibly can always baste your band to your underwear to examine the fit first.
So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I reduce my leg bands at 24 3/4 inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I lower my waistband at 31 inches.
I want my bands to be a bit wider, so I reduce them 2 inches wide, however you can also make them a bit narrower or wider. Try to not go beneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. In the event you cut your bands too slender, woven elastic band they may need some extra bulk at the seam allowance. In case you lower them too wide, you might have issues fitting your gusset.
Sew the 2 short ends of your knit band together. Press the seam to one facet. Helpful trace: If you’re utilizing a serger, use only one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With improper sides together, baste the uncooked edge.
With right sides collectively, pin the knit band evenly alongside the leg gap. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/8 inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You can see this in action on this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance towards the underwear and topstitch with a narrow zigzag to hold the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that very same course of in your other leg gap and waistband and marvel at the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye for design. As the Product Manager for Seamwork, she desires to make sure your online experiences are fun and satisfying.
