Lately, I have been seeing a lot of sewists make their own underwear, and it’s actually inspiring me-however there’s one element that I don’t want to incorporate in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear earlier than, you most likely know that many ending strategies for the legholes and waistline embody elastic, both fold-over elastic, picot, and even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t find out about you, but none of my ready-to-wear underwear have elastic in the legs-and typically they don’t within the waist either. This is the type of underwear I like finest.
So, where does this leave me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear as a result of it feels too restrictive, but I need to make my very own underwear. That is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to point out you learn how to swap elastic for a knit band to finish your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
The right way to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do this.
Ensure your fabric meets the stretch necessities stated in the sample you’re using. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers sample, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re utilizing a Seamwork sample, it includes a stretch guide that can assist you see if the fabric you want to make use of has enough stretch in it. Listed below are some Seamwork patterns you need to use:
– The Geneva panties are a classic alternative, particularly in order for you to use stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are excellent for biker-short model underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work properly with a knit band instead of elastic.
– The brand new (and free!) Flo period underwear. You can also make these without the absorbent fabric if you want to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.
Cut your pattern out and sew together all the essential items. If you have any inquiries regarding where and how you can make use of woven elastic band; dig this,, you could contact us at the web page. Here is my constructed garment except for the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline to help you determine how long your knit bands need to be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I will have to do some math.
Ugh, math!? I know-it’s not my favorite, but we bought this!
You want some math because when you cut the knit band the identical length because the leg hole or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic finish. You need to find the perfect quantity of detrimental ease for your knit band to remain in place and match securely-but comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-here at Seamwork, and she suggested me to comply with a easy equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the overall circumference of the opening.
I would like to emphasize that 90% is a suggestion and a superb place to start! Depending in your fabric’s restoration, chances are you’ll need to do some testing to get the right circumference. You’ll be able to at all times baste your band to your underwear to examine the fit first.
So, woven elastic webbing elastic webbing since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I cut my leg bands at 24 3/4 inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I minimize my waistband at 31 inches.
I want my bands to be a bit wider, so I reduce them 2 inches broad, but you can make them a bit narrower or wider. Try not to go below 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. In case you minimize your bands too narrow, they may need some more bulk at the seam allowance. When you minimize them too huge, you could have problems fitting your gusset.
Sew the two short ends of your knit band together. Press the seam to one side. Helpful hint: knitted elastic band If you’re using a serger, use just one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With flawed sides collectively, baste the raw edge.
With right sides together, pin the knit band evenly along the leg gap. You will have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You can see this in motion on this video tutorial for including a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance in direction of the underwear and topstitch with a slim zigzag to hold the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that very same course of on your different leg hole and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye fixed for design. As the Product Manager for Seamwork, she desires to ensure your online experiences are fun and pleasing.