Lately, I’ve been seeing loads of sewists make their very own underwear, and it’s actually inspiring me-however there’s one detail that I don’t need to include in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear before, you most likely know that many finishing strategies for the legholes and waistline include elastic, both fold-over elastic, picot, and even braided knitted elastic band encased in fabric. I don’t learn about you, however none of my prepared-to-put on underwear have elastic in the legs-and generally they don’t in the waist either. That is the type of underwear I like finest.
So, where does this leave me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear as a result of it feels too restrictive, however I want to make my own underwear. This is where knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to indicate you learn how to swap elastic for a knit band to finish your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
Methods to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do that.
Make sure that your fabric meets the stretch necessities said in the pattern you’re using. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork sample, it includes a stretch guide to help you see if the fabric you want to make use of has enough stretch in it. Listed below are some Seamwork patterns you can use:
– The Geneva panties are a traditional selection, particularly if you need to make use of stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are excellent for biker-short type underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work nicely with a knit band instead of elastic.
– The brand new (and free!) Flo interval underwear. You may make these without the absorbent fabric if you want to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.
Cut your sample out and sew collectively all the essential items. Here is my constructed garment except for the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that will help you decide how long your knit bands must be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I will have to do some math.
Ugh, math!? I do know-it’s not my favourite, but we acquired this!
You want some math because if you lower the knit band the identical size as the leg hole or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic finish. You need to search out the right quantity of negative ease for your knit band to stay in place and match securely-but comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-here at Seamwork, and she suggested me to comply with a easy equation when making knit bands for jacquard elastic webbing closures. Make the knit band 90% of the overall circumference of the opening.
I want to emphasise that 90% is a suggestion and a good place to start! Depending in your fabric’s restoration, it’s possible you’ll should do some testing to get the best circumference. You may at all times baste your band to your underwear to check the match first.
So, since my leg gap is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I minimize my leg bands at 24 3/four inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I minimize my waistband at 31 inches.
I want my bands to be a bit wider, so I cut them 2 inches huge, however you can also make them a bit narrower or wider. Try to not go underneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. When you cut your bands too slim, they might have some more bulk at the seam allowance. In the event you loved this information and you wish to receive much more information concerning jacquard woven elastic webbing webbing (Get Source) please visit the web-site. If you happen to cut them too large, you might have issues fitting your gusset.
Sew the two quick ends of your knit band together. Press the seam to 1 side. Helpful hint: If you’re using a serger, use just one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With mistaken sides collectively, baste the uncooked edge.
With right sides together, pin the knit band evenly along the leg hole. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/8 inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You may see this in action in this video tutorial for including a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance in the direction of the underwear and topstitch with a slim zigzag to hold the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that same course of on your different leg gap and waistband and marvel at the no-elastic undies you simply made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has a watch for design. As the Product Manager for Seamwork, she needs to make sure your on-line experiences are enjoyable and pleasing.