Lately, I have been seeing plenty of sewists make their own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-but there’s one detail that I don’t want to include in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear before, you most likely know that many finishing strategies for the legholes and waistline include elastic, either fold-over elastic, picot, and even braided knitted elastic webbing encased in fabric. I don’t learn about you, however none of my prepared-to-wear underwear have elastic within the legs-and sometimes they don’t within the waist both. This is the type of underwear I like best.
So, the place does this depart me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, however I need to make my own underwear. This is where knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to indicate you tips on how to swap elastic for a knit band to complete your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
How one can Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do that.
Ensure your fabric meets the stretch requirements said within the sample you’re using. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers sample, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork pattern, it features a stretch guide that can assist you see if the fabric you need to make use of has enough stretch in it. Listed here are some Seamwork patterns you should use:
– The Geneva panties are a classic choice, particularly if you would like to use stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are good for biker-short style underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work properly with a knit band as an alternative of elastic.
– The brand new (and free!) Flo interval underwear. You can also make these with out the absorbent fabric if you wish to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.
Cut your pattern out and sew together all the essential pieces. Here is my constructed garment except for the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that will help you determine how lengthy your knit bands must be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I will have to do some math.
Ugh, math!? I do know-it’s not my favorite, but we obtained this!
You want some math as a result of in the event you cut the knit band the identical length because the leg gap or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to mimic the elastic end. You want to seek out the proper quantity of destructive ease to your knit band to stay in place and fit securely-however comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, elastic band our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-right here at Seamwork, and she advised me to comply with a simple equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the entire circumference of the opening.
I want to emphasise that 90% is a suggestion and a great place to begin! Depending on your fabric’s recovery, you might have to do some testing to get the fitting circumference. You may always baste your band to your underwear to check the fit first.
So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24. If you liked this write-up and you would like to get additional data relating to jacquard elastic band (new content from Poundcrayon 8 Over Blog) kindly visit our page. 75. I cut my leg bands at 24 3/four inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I minimize my waistband at 31 inches.
I need my bands to be a bit wider, so I reduce them 2 inches vast, however you may make them a bit narrower or wider. Try not to go below 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. For those who lower your bands too narrow, jacquard elastic band they might need some extra bulk at the seam allowance. In the event you minimize them too broad, you’ll have issues fitting your gusset.
Sew the two short ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to at least one facet. Helpful hint: If you’re using a serger, use only one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With mistaken sides together, baste the uncooked edge.
With proper sides collectively, pin the knit band evenly alongside the leg gap. You will have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You possibly can see this in action in this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance towards the underwear and topstitch with a slender zigzag to carry the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that very same process in your other leg hole and waistband and marvel at the no-elastic undies you simply made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye fixed for design. As the Product Manager for Seamwork, she wants to ensure your online experiences are enjoyable and pleasing.
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