Lately, I have been seeing plenty of sewists make their own underwear, and it’s actually inspiring me-however there’s one element that I don’t need to incorporate in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear earlier than, you probably know that many ending strategies for elastic webbing the legholes and waistline embody elastic, either fold-over woven elastic webbing, picot, and even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t learn about you, however none of my ready-to-wear underwear have elastic in the legs-and generally they don’t in the waist both. This is the type of underwear I like greatest.
So, the place does this leave me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear as a result of it feels too restrictive, however I need to make my own underwear. That is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to indicate you how you can swap elastic for a knit band to finish your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
Easy methods to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do that.
Ensure your fabric meets the stretch necessities said in the pattern you’re using. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re utilizing a Seamwork sample, it includes a stretch information to help you see if the fabric you want to use has sufficient stretch in it. Listed below are some Seamwork patterns you can use:
– The Geneva panties are a classic selection, particularly if you’d like to use stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are perfect for biker-quick type underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work nicely with a knit band as an alternative of elastic.
– The new (and free!) Flo period underwear. You may make these with out the absorbent fabric if you want to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.
Cut your pattern out and sew together all the essential items. Here is my constructed garment aside from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that will help you resolve how lengthy your knit bands must be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I must do some math.
Ugh, math!? I do know-it’s not my favourite, however we got this!
You need some math as a result of when you reduce the knit band the same length because the leg hole or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to mimic the elastic end. You need to search out the proper amount of detrimental ease on your knit band to stay in place and fit securely-but comfortably-to your body.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-right here at Seamwork, and she suggested me to follow a simple equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the total circumference of the opening.
I want to emphasize that 90% is a suggestion and a good place to start! Depending on your fabric’s restoration, you may must do some testing to get the correct circumference. You can always baste your band to your underwear to check the fit first.
So, knitted elastic band since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I minimize my leg bands at 24 3/four inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I lower my waistband at 31 inches.
I would like my bands to be a bit wider, so I lower them 2 inches broad, but you can also make them a bit narrower or wider. Try to not go underneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. If you enjoyed this article and you would certainly such as to receive more info pertaining to knitted elastic band (the full report) kindly see our web site. In the event you minimize your bands too narrow, they might need some more bulk at the seam allowance. When you lower them too wide, you may have issues fitting your gusset.
Sew the 2 short ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to one side. Helpful hint: If you’re utilizing a serger, use only one needle to cut down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With fallacious sides together, baste the uncooked edge.
With proper sides collectively, pin the knit band evenly alongside the leg hole. You will have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, knitted elastic webbing evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/8 inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You possibly can see this in motion on this video tutorial for including a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance in the direction of the underwear and topstitch with a slender zigzag to carry the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that very same course of on your different leg gap and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye fixed for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she wants to verify your on-line experiences are fun and enjoyable.