Lately, I’ve been seeing plenty of sewists make their own underwear, and it’s actually inspiring me-but there’s one detail that I don’t want to incorporate in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear earlier than, you in all probability know that many ending strategies for the legholes and waistline embrace elastic, either fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t know about you, however none of my ready-to-put on underwear have elastic within the legs-and generally they don’t in the waist both. That is the kind of underwear I like greatest.
So, where does this go away me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear as a result of it feels too restrictive, however I want to make my very own underwear. That is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to show you methods to swap elastic for a knit band to finish your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
Easy methods to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do that.
Be sure your fabric meets the stretch necessities acknowledged within the pattern you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork pattern, it includes a stretch guide to help you see if the fabric you need to use has sufficient stretch in it. Listed here are some Seamwork patterns you should utilize:
– The Geneva panties are a classic choice, especially if you would like to use stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are perfect for elastic band biker-brief model underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work well with a knit band instead of elastic.
– The new (and free!) Flo period underwear. You may make these with out the absorbent fabric if you wish to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.
Cut your pattern out and sew collectively all the essential items. Here is my constructed garment aside from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that will help you determine how long your knit bands need to be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I must do some math.
Ugh, math!? I do know-it’s not my favorite, but we acquired this!
You want some math as a result of should you minimize the knit band the same length as the leg hole or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to mimic the elastic end. If you loved this information and you would certainly like to receive more details concerning knitted elastic band jacquard elastic band webbing – squareblogs.net, kindly see our own website. You need to find the right amount of detrimental ease for your knit band to stay in place and fit securely-but comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, knitted elastic webbing our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-here at Seamwork, and she advised me to follow a easy equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the total circumference of the opening.
I need to emphasize that 90% is a suggestion and a good place to start! Depending in your fabric’s restoration, you might need to do some testing to get the best circumference. You possibly can at all times baste your band to your underwear to check the match first.
So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I minimize my leg bands at 24 3/4 inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I minimize my waistband at 31 inches.
I would like my bands to be a bit wider, so I cut them 2 inches wide, however you may make them a bit narrower or wider. Try not to go beneath 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. When you minimize your bands too narrow, they might need some more bulk at the seam allowance. In the event you minimize them too extensive, you’ll have problems fitting your gusset.
Sew the two short ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to at least one aspect. Helpful trace: If you’re using a serger, use just one needle to cut down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With improper sides collectively, baste the uncooked edge.
With proper sides collectively, pin the knit band evenly along the leg hole. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You may see this in motion in this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance towards the underwear and topstitch with a slender zigzag to carry the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that same process in your other leg hole and waistband and marvel at the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye fixed for design. As the Product Manager for Seamwork, she desires to make sure your on-line experiences are fun and pleasant.